Introduction
The world of makeup trends is ever-evolving, but some techniques stand the test of time and promise a picture-perfect look. One such trend making waves is underpainting. This technique, hailed by makeup artists globally, focuses on layering key products beneath foundation for a natural, radiant glow. Whether you’re new to makeup or looking to refine your skills, this guide will walk you through the steps to master underpainting and elevate your beauty routine.
What is Underpainting?
Underpainting is a makeup technique where products like bronzer, blush, and highlighter are applied beneath the foundation. This reverse application approach creates a soft, blended effect, mimicking the way light naturally interacts with your face. The result? A flawless, lit-from-within glow that enhances your features without looking overdone.
Why Underpainting Works
Unlike traditional makeup application, where each product is layered on top of foundation, underpainting creates depth and dimension while maintaining a natural finish. The foundation subtly veils the initial layers, ensuring the look is cohesive and seamless. This technique is especially effective for achieving:
- Natural Contouring: Enhances facial structure without harsh lines.
- Soft Glow: Achieves a radiant, airbrushed finish.
- Longer Wear: Products beneath foundation adhere better to the skin, improving longevity.
Illuminating Your Look: Starting With the Highlights
Unlike traditional makeup application, where each product is layered on top of foundation, underpainting creates depth and dimension while maintaining a natural finish. The foundation subtly veils the initial layers, ensuring the look is cohesive and seamless. This technique is especially effective for achieving:
- Natural Contouring: Enhances facial structure without harsh lines.
- Soft Glow: Achieves a radiant, airbrushed finish.
- Longer Wear: Products beneath foundation adhere better to the skin, improving longevity.
Step 1: Bronzer – Defining the Contours
Bronzer is your first step in underpainting. Unlike traditional contouring, this method creates a more blended and natural effect. Here’s how:
- Placement: Using a cream or liquid bronzer, apply it to areas where shadows naturally fall—the hollows of your cheeks, sides of the nose, jawline, and temples.
- Blending: Use a dense brush or sponge to blend the bronzer. Ensure the edges are soft and seamless.
- Pro Tip: Stick to a shade that’s one to two tones darker than your skin for a natural finish.
Step 2: Blush – Adding a Natural Flush
Blush adds warmth and vitality to your complexion. Placing it beneath the foundation ensures it looks like it’s coming from within your skin.
- Placement: Apply a cream or liquid blush to the apples of your cheeks, blending upward toward the temples for a lifted effect.
- Blending: Gently diffuse the edges to avoid harsh lines.
- Pro Tip: Choose a shade that complements your undertone—peachy hues for warm tones and rosy shades for cool tones.
Step 3: Highlighter – Amplifying the Glow
Highlighting under the foundation creates a subtle, candlelit glow that enhances your natural features.
- Placement: Apply a liquid highlighter to the high points of your face—cheekbones, bridge of the nose, brow bone, and cupid’s bow.
- Blending: Tap the product using your fingertips or a damp sponge for a seamless finish.
- Pro Tip: Opt for a highlighter with a soft sheen rather than chunky glitter for a more natural effect.
Step 4: Foundation – Blending it All Seamlessly
Foundation ties the entire look together, providing a polished and unified appearance.
- Application: Use a lightweight or medium-coverage foundation, applying it with a damp sponge or brush.
- Blending: Dab the foundation over your face, gently blending it over the bronzer, blush, and highlighter. Avoid heavy strokes to preserve the layered effect.
- Pro Tip: If needed, go back with a small amount of blush or highlighter on top to enhance the effect.
Key Tips for Mastering the Art of Underpainting
- Start Light and Layer Gradually:
Underpainting is all about creating a natural finish. Begin with a small amount of product and build it up gradually. This ensures you avoid an overdone or cakey look while maintaining control over your makeup application. - Choose the Right Tools:
The tools you use can make a significant difference. Use fluffy brushes for powders, damp beauty sponges for cream products, and your fingertips for blending liquid textures. Each tool can help you achieve the desired finish, depending on the product you’re working with. - Work With Creams and Liquids:
Cream and liquid products are underpainting essentials. They’re easier to blend and offer a skin-like finish. Use cream bronzers, blushes, and highlighters to layer your makeup naturally. - Focus on Precision Placement:
Apply bronzer under the cheekbones, along the jawline, and at the sides of the nose to define structure. Blush should sit on the apples of the cheeks for a youthful flush, while highlighter goes on the high points, such as the cheekbones, brow bone, and the bridge of the nose. - Blend Thoroughly After Each Step:
To avoid harsh lines, blend each layer thoroughly before moving to the next. This ensures that the transition between shades is seamless, creating a polished and professional look. - Adapt to Your Skin Type:
Choose products that suit your skin type for a long-lasting finish. If you have oily skin, opt for matte and oil-free formulas that prevent shine. For dry skin, stick to hydrating and luminous products that keep your skin looking fresh. - Customize Colors for Your Skin Tone:
Select shades that complement your complexion. Fair skin tones might look better with soft peaches and light bronzers, while deeper skin tones can use rich berries and warm bronzes for a flattering effect. - Set Strategically:
Use setting powder sparingly to maintain the dewy finish underpainting is known for. Focus on areas prone to oiliness, such as the T-zone, and leave other areas untouched to preserve the natural glow. - Avoid Heavy Foundation Layers:
Since underpainting is designed to look like a second skin, avoid piling on thick layers of foundation. A lightweight, sheer foundation or tinted moisturizer is ideal for blending over your contour and highlight. - Practice Patience:
Underpainting is an art, and like any art, it requires patience. Take your time blending and adjusting the intensity of each product. The effort will result in a flawless, professional-looking finish. - Enhance Longevity with Setting Sprays:
Once you’ve completed the underpainting process, lock your look in place with a setting spray. This not only ensures your makeup stays intact but also enhances the skin-like finish by melting the layers together. - Test in Different Lighting:
Your makeup may look flawless in one setting but unnatural in another. Always check your underpainting work in both natural and artificial lighting to ensure it looks seamless everywhere. - Experiment With Textures:
If you’re new to underpainting, try combining matte and shimmer textures for added dimension. For example, use a matte bronzer for structure and a shimmer highlighter for glow. - Maintain Skin Prep:
Properly prepped skin is the foundation of great underpainting. Cleanse, exfoliate, and moisturize before applying any products to ensure a smooth base. For added hydration, use a primer that suits your skin’s needs. - Avoid Over-Saturation of Color:
Underpainting is designed to enhance natural beauty subtly. Avoid going too heavy on the blush, bronzer, or highlighter. Remember, less is more, and the goal is to build a look that appears naturally radiant. - Learn From the Pros:
Watch tutorials or attend makeup workshops to refine your technique. Observing professional techniques can help you gain confidence and explore advanced underpainting tricks.
By following these tips, you’ll master underpainting and create a stunning, natural, and dimensional makeup look every time!
Why Underpainting is Worth Trying
Underpainting isn’t just a trend—it’s a technique that can revolutionize your makeup game. By working with your face’s natural structure and light, it allows for a sophisticated and natural look suitable for any occasion. Whether you’re heading to a casual brunch or a formal event, this technique ensures you’ll look effortlessly radiant.
Final Thoughts
Mastering underpainting takes practice, but the results are well worth the effort. It’s a game-changing approach that combines artistry with practicality, giving you a look that’s both polished and natural. So grab your bronzer, blush, and highlighter, and start experimenting today. Your flawless makeup journey awaits!
FAQs (frequently-asked questions)
Creams and liquids blend better for underpainting, but powders can be used with light application and thorough blending.
Apply light layers and blend thoroughly, using a lightweight foundation to keep the finish seamless and natural.
Use a dense brush or sponge for bronzer, a damp sponge for creams, and fingertips for blending liquid highlighter.
Yes! Underpainting can be adjusted for both everyday looks and more sculpted finishes for special occasions.